In today’s bustling global fashion scene, it can be all too easy to overlook the origins of our clothes. We buy embroidered, woven, and intricately designed pieces, but we rarely think about the hands behind them or the cultures they represent. Everything is categorised under the label of the big fashion house or fast fashion company this was sold at, without mentioning the source communities or honouring these unique skills.

Photo credits: (1) Himalayan Freedom, (2,3) Manos del Uruguay

This might seem inconsequential at first glance, but in reality, it reflects a deeply ingrained colonialist and extractivist mindset of the Western fashion industry. This industry tends to view certain non-Western cultures and their resources as commodities to be exploited for profit, rather than as living, evolving entities deserving of respect and protection. 

In essence, this practice threatens the very fabric of what we call “cultural sustainability”. In the context of fashion, cultural sustainability can be defined as “a growing movement seeking to rectify the biases of the past and reform the current system to one that recognises and cultivates diversity in fashion and the wider sustainability discourse.”  (by Jessica Ourano, Cultural Sustainability: Colonialism, Appropriation, and What Justice Looks Like: link)

It only takes minimum observation of Western everyday life to spot the dichotomy between what is labelled as “fashion” and what is “non-fashion”: luxury brands from fashion capitals like Paris and Milan are widely celebrated for their handcrafted garments. At the same time, traditional and indigenous textiles and designs are often relegated to the sidelines, even though they use high-quality materials and centuries-old complex techniques. Approaching fashion through these Western-centric lenses perpetuates racism within the industry, reinforcing the notion that Western fashion is the epitome of style and sophistication. 

Following the colonial mindset, the Western world often feels entitled to appropriate the heritage of entire communities or nations categorised as non-Western. However, this appropriation risks obscuring the rich tapestry of traditional craftsmanship — a heritage passed down through generations and imbued with cultural significance. From intricate weaving techniques to vibrant textile patterns, traditional craftsmanship serves as a tangible expression of identity for communities around the world. Each stitch and design carries with it the stories and heritage of the people who wear them and have worn them in the past, serving as invaluable sources of knowledge for entire cultures and communities.

Too often, traditional designs are co-opted by big fashion brands without proper acknowledgement or involvement of the original artisans. This cultural appropriation not only perpetuates colonial legacies but also denies communities, designers and entrepreneurs the recognition and compensation they deserve. 

Furthermore, there’s a serious risk posed by the trend of Western fashion homogenisation. As Western fashion is continuously pushed as the ultimate standard of style and elegance, it diminishes the demand for traditional craftsmanship, deemed not as elegant and stylish. This threatens these invaluable skills to potentially vanish over time. We as WFTO, believe in local economies and communities. It’s crucial for fashion companies to not only adapt to the demands of the European market but also consider the impact on the local communities where these traditional crafts originate. Only by prioritising the sustainability and well-being of these communities can we ensure an equitable and culturally sustainable fashion industry. 

Photo credits: Global Mamas

It becomes evident that among these challenges, there’s a solution: By promoting traditional craftsmanship, crediting and involving source communities in the design, production and decision-making process, we can ensure that cultural heritage is preserved and celebrated authentically. As Monica Boța-Moisin, expert in Fashion Law & Cultural Sustainability and founder of Cultural Intellectual Property Rights Initiative® (CIPRI) puts it, fashion has to “stop being the one that takes advantage and instead be the one that offers advantages.” This will not only foster greater equity within the fashion industry but also give space to communities to reclaim their cultural identity on their terms. 

We as WFTO, believe that local economies have the power to spark a Business Revolution in fashion. Our global community of Fair Trade Enterprises is proving this by actively collaborating with local artisan groups as well as artisan-owned enterprises, ensuring access to fair markets and opportunities to thrive and evolve in the business world. Here are just a few inspiring case studies from our community, demonstrating how we can achieve cultural sustainability through Fair Trade practices: 

Photo credits: Thai Tribal Crafts

Thai Tribal Crafts

Established in 1973 in northern Thailand, Thai Tribal Crafts (TTC) is dedicated to fostering equitable partnerships and preserving the cultural heritage of the local indigenous communities who were facing significant economic challenges. 

Traditionally, these communities engaged in slash-and-burn agriculture, but environmental regulations rendered this lifestyle unsustainable. TTC stepped in to provide an alternative income source: handicraft production. Collaborating with seven hill tribes, including the Akha, Hmong, Karen, Lahu, Lawa, Lisu, and Mien, this WFTO-Guaranteed Fair Trade enterprise contributes to cultural sustainability by preserving and promoting indigenous craftsmanship. 

Alongside beautiful homeware, these artisans produce exquisite accessories adorned with indigenous materials, reflecting their rich cultural heritage. The Akha specialise in intricate weaving and clothing embellished with indigenous materials. The Hmong excel in needlework, batik cloth production, and blacksmithing, crafting unique accessories like jewelry and musical instruments. The Karen are known for ikat weaving and unique dress styles, while the Lahu produce distinct weaving patterns and colorful trims, including accessories such as baskets and crossbows. 

By following our 10 Principles of Fair Trade, they ensure fair compensation for artisans and access to global markets, as well as creating economic opportunities for the local communities. In essence, TTC serves as a model for sustainable development and cultural preservation in northern Thailand.

Photo credits: Global Mamas

Global Mamas

Global Mamas, a WFTO Guaranteed Fair Trade Enterprise, is a great example of how a commitment to respecting local designs and techniques can lead to success in local and global markets.

This Fair Trade Enterprise is located in Ghana, West Africa supporting the sustainable development of women artisans by producing Fair Trade products. Global Mamas works with local seamstresses and artisans, operating their own businesses in Cape Coast, Prampram, and Ashaiman, or working at Global Mamas’ Fair Trade Zone in Kpong. 

Each Global Mamas product is handmade by Ghanaian women who are experts in the art of handcrafting batik and tie dye fabrics, beads, shea butter, shea and black soap, and sewing. These are all laborious and intricate crafts that have been passed down through generations from mothers to daughters and teachers to apprentices. All products of Global Mamas have been touched by the hands of one of these women and made specifically to bring colour and authentic West African tradition to your clothes, jewellery, and home. 

Photo Credits: Raymisa

Raymisa

Since starting his business in 1993, Raymisa Peru is a Fair Trade Enterprise verified by WFTO that focuses continually on working with local communities and groups of artisans to promote and develop Peruvian craftsmanship. 

The artisans working with Raymisa are mothers or economically marginalised women, who master traditional Peruvian techniques like weaving, knitting, embroidery, and hand-painting, skills passed down through generations that would be otherwise lost. That’s why this Fair Trade Enterprise commercialises Peruvian handicraft products, made by respecting the original processes. 

From the vibrant colours of chulucanas and ayacuchana ceramics to the intricate patterns of basket weaving and ayacuchano textiles, every product reflects the essence of Peruvian culture and tradition. By commercializing these handmade products and respecting the original processes, Raymisa Peru helps to promote and celebrate the diversity of Peruvian craftsmanship.

Supporting their work means recognising the importance of strengthening the economic access of Peruvian artists and artisans, and supporting handmade production vs industrial manufacturing.

By Valia Almpani